From Iran to Dubai to Muscat

As the conflict in the Gulf goes unabated, I recollect that our ships Ganga and  Khukri were there in the port of Bandar Abbas located in the Strait of Hormuz’ in Dec 1992. We left Bandar Abbas for Dubai after a four-day, exciting stay. Dubai was just across and took us a day to arrive and we were outside the harbour the same evening, preparing for entry the next morning, in a smart manner with bows shining and the Western fleet commander on board.  The purpose of the visit was also to show to the region our indigenous warships made in Mazagaon docks.   

Dubai was remarkably different from Iran as the high-rise modern infrastructure greeted us with fragrance of cosmopolitanism and internationalism. A large and impressive reception party was on the jetty greeting us,  RAdm Madhvendra Singh was the fleet commander and his flag was flying on board  Ganga. There were school children from Indian schools  waving our National flag, welcoming us . Suddenly, there was an announcement, ‘ Logistics officer Bridge Admiral’ . I panicked and rushed up the ladder to the bridge wing where Fleet commander was waving at the children below. On seeing me he said ‘LOGO, what can we give to these children?’ I immediately started thinking about what items we have in our stores worthy for children? Suddenly, I realized that we carry chocolates for the Air crew and I promptly replied ‘Sir we can give chocolates!’ very well he commanded! I leapt down, announced for my stores in-charge   Dharam Prakash and soon we had made packets and distributed . 

My job was cut out on arrival as the first priority of foreign currency was to be dealt with. Mr Aneja from India embassy was there with his briefcase containing foreign currency and soon it was counted and accepted . However, when the money was put in various bags for the paying officers to disperse to their departments to my utter surprise, I found many of them had left the ship to see the city, so captivated they were by the charm of the place . I could not close the account and therefore it was distributed the second day by them . None felt apologetic!

There was no room for me to step out of the ship that day. Some  ship chandlers of Indian origin proudly came on board and met me and expressed their joy to provide items to  an Indian warship.  They said that till now they had given stores to many American warships where the Logistics officers had huge budgets for local shopping . I smiled and stated that in our case our budget and requirement was quite meagre , but they understood . They not only supplied fresh   stores of excellent quality at reasonable price but also gave us many complimentary items . One Indian entrepreneur filled our ship with his brand of potato wafers  which lasted us for many days. Such was the love for India!  

The evening dinner  party was my responsibility as large number of Indians , foreign dignitaries , embassy staff and officials were expected . I was very tired by the time the party was over and in no mood to see the city that day. The second day I went around the city in a wind shield tour but did not find anything interesting to buy . I had to attend a party given by the local Indians for the ship in a five-star hotel in the evening.   Many people were buying Sony TVs, which was cheap but I did not buy any electronic stuff . Instead I landed in a cutlery shop selling Japanese cutlery which I purchased and which is still with me. A sweet  electronic xylophone  of Japanese make, I got for my children which they played  for many years . Yes,  a standard Sharjah carpet was also in my kitty . The day before we were to depart the embassy staff said that if it was ok they would collect the balance currency in the evening which was fine  with me . They came in the night and once they had accounted all cash they asked me if they could do anything for me . I said that I could not shop anything substantial for my children . They were very happy to take me to one of the most reputed department store , I forgot the name and from there I got a small inflatable  swimming pool for my children and some toys. It was uncommon then . 

Our last port of call was Muscat in Oman . The Naval Attache of that region Captain K M Nair was there with his staff and currency to receive us .  In the evening party on board, there were many influential and respected Indians who attended.  I was surprised to see my History Lecturer from University of Allahabad, the late Mr Madhav Chandra, there he was probably a deputy Ambassador he was happy to see me. In 1978, he qualified the I A S and his ranking was no 2 in India. We had interviewed him for our university magazine ‘ The critic’, which I published.  We learnt that the Sultan of Oman was a friend of India and was educated in Mumbai. Our survey ships regularly visit the capital for their survey work. Many Indians were in teaching profession there . There were temples  and all kinds of freedom for the Indians; it was quite a liberal place despite being a Sultanate . Our ship exercised with their Navy and we also visited their Naval base where they allowed us to shop in their canteen. I was quite happy to see that a number of Indian Navy personnel were employed by the Oman Navy after their retirement. I met Cdr Ghildiyal, an engineer who was working there. He was in uniform, wearing Lt Cdr rank as they employ Indians in a rank below their last rank. The in – charge of their officers’ mess was a retired steward of Indian Navy . Our ties, especially trading ties, go back to many centuries . In fact recently a sail ship named ‘Kaundinya’ made in India sailed with the traditional gears from Porbandar to Muscat. 

As I close this blog my mind is in Iran, and I recollect our great historical ties of culture and economy. Urdu is the synthesis of our association. Many Iranian students studied in Allahabad University with me and stayed in the International hostel. When I was training in Kochi in 1982 a large number of Iranian officers were also being trained there. I recall one Iranian officer saying that how  can we Indians consume such hot food!   Having stayed in South Mumbai for long the many Iranian cafes serving distinct tea and ‘bun – maska’ is in memory. I remember interacting with the owner of ‘Wibbs’ bread in Mumbai an Iranian, he was so jovial and large-hearted.  Our ties with Iran are certainly deeper, sincere and longer than with America and Israel. I wish this ongoing war to stop immediately.  



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Disclaimer

Views expressed above are the author’s own.



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