Kamal Ghorui
CHENNAI: Even before Vijay declared “This is a new beginning” on Sunday, after taking oath as chief minister, his suit had made the statement.“Vijay wanted a suit similar to the one in ‘Beast’ for his swearing-in,” says designer Zafir Ahmed, proprietor of Chennai-based Zafir and Shadab, who created Vijay’s sleek black suit for the oath-taking ceremony.
“The suit was a well-calculated move to portray himself as an agent of change,” says R Kannan, author of biographies on former chief ministers C N Annadurai and M G Ramachandran. “It was meant to appeal not just to the younger generation, but perhaps even to transcend the boundaries of the state and create a pan-India appeal.”The look, says Zafir, was conceived nearly a week before the ceremony and inspired by Vijay’s styling in the 2022 film ‘Beast’, in which he plays a Research and Analysis Wing agent. The matte-finish black suit, featuring a classic notch lapel and minimalist two-button silhouette, was paired with what Zafir describes as a “wrinkle-free crisp white shirt with a slight sheen”.“He knew what he wanted,” says Zafir. “The choice of black was deliberate. Cream or lighter colours were okay for the campaign, but would not stand out in the same way. Black is powerful, more commanding on stage and camera.”He adds that Vijay had worn blue suits for events in Malaysia, but wanted something markedly different for the swearing-in.The suit was handcrafted using traditional “canvas construction”, a tailoring technique that allows the jacket to drape naturally and mould more closely to the body’s shape. “It takes two days to make properly. Canvas construction gives a cleaner silhouette,” says Zafir.According to Kannan, Vijay’s styling signals the return of charismatic politics in Tamil Nadu after the deaths of M Karunanidhi and J Jayalalithaa. “After 2017, there was a vacuum. But from 2024 onwards, charismatic politics found a new lease of life,” he says.“This was the first swearing-in ceremony of a chief minister in Tamil Nadu where the leader was not dressed in a veshti. Vijay’s speech too reflected this positioning,” says Kannan. “There was filmy talk, punch dialogues. It felt organic, but it was not the speech of a seasoned politician.”Annadurai, says Kannan, was the opposite of sartorial elegance. “He sometimes buttoned his shirts wrong and wore the same veshti for days. He was never worried about appearance. Yet, the love and affection he commanded was unbelievable.”Karunanidhi, on the other hand, was conscious of presentation. “I’ve met him many times. His nails would always be manicured, his veshti spotless,” says Kannan, adding that Karunanidhi would worry about how others around him looked. “He once sent word to actor Rajinikanth not to appear in public with a stubble.”MGR, says Kannan, was also conscious of his appearance. “Only in private would he remove his fur cap. He would change shirts several times during campaigns, wear large amounts of eau de cologne, and reserve suits for overseas visits.”In Tamil Nadu politics, says Kannan, trousers were associated with dalit leaders and movements because B R Ambedkar always wore western wear. “Those who were ideologically beholden to Ambedkar followed that style. Even VCK chief Thol Thirumavalavan always wears trousers. For the first time, here is a mass leader who has made ‘trousers and coat’ kosher in mainstream Tamil politics,” he says.
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