Where banarasi weaves meet polki: Indriya and Amit Aggarwal chart a new course for Indian craft

Where banarasi weaves meet polki: Indriya and Amit Aggarwal chart a new course for Indian craft
Indriya, Aditya Birla Jewellery brings diamonds and Polki to the forefront, shaping a modern expression of Indian heritage on the runway.

As jewellery increasingly moves from being a finishing touch to a focal point on the runway, collaborations between designers and legacy houses are shaping how tradition is reinterpreted for today. At Lakmē Fashion Week X FDCI, Indriya, Aditya Birla Jewellery, partnered with Amit Aggarwal to present ‘Orizon’, a showcase that brought together sculptural design and heritage craftsmanship, offering a contemporary take on Indian jewellery within one of the country’s most influential fashion platforms.With ‘Orizon’, Indriya, Aditya Birla Jewellery and Amit Aggarwal look at tradition as something that does not confine us, but empowers us, and inspires the modern Indian woman to move forward, staying rooted and carrying her heritage with pride. The show was woven as a journey from darkness to light, inspired by the Indian adage ‘Tamaso ma jyotir gamaya,’ expressed through a modern interpretation of the horizon.This season, Amit Aggarwal’s collection explored a journey from shadow to illumination tracing a narrative that moves from quiet introspection to radiant expression. Sculptural silhouettes and experimental material techniques transformed traditional textiles into structured forms that respond to light and movement, creating a visual story of transformation on the runway.Rooted in India’s rich artistic traditions, Indriya’s jewellery mirrored Aggarwal’s architectural design language through thoughtfully curated pieces. The show opened with the quiet brilliance of a monotone of diamonds, set in refined, light-reflecting forms. As it progressed, the palette deepened into a vivid interplay of diamonds, Polki, rubies and emeralds, unfolding into more expressive, sculptural compositions. Statement earrings, necklaces and ornamental accents echoed the garments’ geometric forms, while diamonds and uncut stones created points of light that shifted with movement. A striking facet of the collection was Indriya’s contemporary interpretation of Polki. Heritage techniques were enhanced through innovative setting methods designed to amplify brilliance, color, and fluidity. The brand’s master kaarigars moved beyond conventions to reimagine uncut diamonds with a distinctive samosa-dart setting beneath each stone, intensifying light reflection and allowing the stones to radiate with distinctive luminosity.These polki creations were further enriched by a vibrant gemstone palette including tourmalines, tanzanites, sapphires and rubies, often paired with South Sea pearls, creating jewellery that feels lighter and more fluid on the body. Moreover, innovative setting techniques such as wall-prong and corner bezels settings minimise the visibility of metal, allowing the gemstones to take centre stage. Even carved stones are layered with delicate ‘kissing’ polki elements, adding intimacy and dimensionality to each piece.In a nod to looking back while moving forward, Polki was made lighter, with a fluid aesthetic and intuitively designed to contour seamlessly to the body, embodying both comfort and elegance, while retaining the grandeur of heritage craftsmanship.Closing the show, Disha Patani took centre stage as the showstopper, dressed in Indriya’s captivating jewellery paired with Amit Aggarwal’s sculptural couture. Her presence brought Orizon to life, embodying the collection’s journey from shadow to illumination.

Lead image_Indriya Jewels

Mr. Sandeep Kohli, CEO, Indriya, Aditya Birla Jewellery, said, “Lakmē Fashion Week was a powerful canvas to express how Indriya is redefining Polki and diamond for a new era through design superiority and modern intent. Our jewellery, elevated by design innovation, illuminated the runway, presenting a narrative where heritage is not a constraint, but a source of empowerment, one that allows tradition to evolve. This jewellery narrative came alive in dialogue with Amit Aggarwal’s sculptural silhouettes, crafted from upcycled Banarasi weaves and mirror work, which set the visual language of the show. Together with Amit Aggarwal, we presented a new expression of Indian craftsmanship that feels modern and empowered, created for women who carry heritage forward.”Designer Amit Aggarwal said, “Bringing ‘Orizon’ to life at Lakmē Fashion Week X FDCI was about capturing a moment of transformation. Conceived as a journey of evolution, seeing the collection unfold on the runway reaffirmed how craft continues to grow through emotion, innovation and collaboration. Working with Indriya, Aditya Birla Jewellery, allowed us to create a seamless dialogue between garment and jewellery, where both complemented one another to shape a unified narrative of transformation.The synergy between both the brands presenting ensembles defined by precision, craftsmanship, and modern allure.At its core, Orizon celebrated a shared vision where heritage, craft and innovation converge, and tradition becomes the point of departure for modern expression.

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Indriya, the Aditya Birla Group’s jewellery brand launched in July 2024, derives its name from the Sanskrit word for the five senses. Crafted for women whose love for jewellery is endless, Indriya offers over 32,000 distinctive designs across gold, polki, and diamond jewellery, where each piece leaves you wanting more. With 50+ stores nationwide, Indriya continues to expand its presence across the country.Disclaimer: This article has been produced on behalf of Indriya Jewels by Times Internet’s Spotlight team.

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